Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Packin' up
Families and whaling crews prepare for weeks before heading out to the ice. There is really no telling how long you could be out there. It all depends on the whales of course! Whaling crews take one skin boat out to actually hunt the whale as well as one aluminum boat, used to bring the whale to the edge of the ice once its caught. I couldn't help but notice the irony of dragging old wooden, dog sleds behind the snow-mobiles! Aka (grandma) said a prayer while everyone held hands around the skin boat and then engines roared and off we went on the back of the sled! The ride out was beautiful and slightly nerve wracking! Reed and I both totally wiped out once. We were really lucky that neither of us got hurt and that the camera didn't break! Once out on the ice, we set up camp.....shoveled some snow so our tent could rest evenly on level ice, made a path to the edge of the ice for the skin boat, set up a camouflaged bench to chill on while watching for the whales and that was that.... we were whaling! Reed and I were thinking of shots to take while everyone else was keeping a look out for blows, but nonetheless, we were all pretty focused for the first 12 hours of the hunt. Initially, I was slightly startled when a 28 foot whale came within 14 feet of where I was standing, but as time moved forward and the sun stayed in the same place, I gained confidence in the ice we were standing on and in my adopted Inupiat family. Soon enough Reed and I were called by our eskimo names and told to be quiet if a whale was getting close. We fit right in! Everyone had a role in the operation whether it was the boys building up a wall to shield the camp site from being spotted, Taaqpak cooking up a meal or Julio looking through binoculars to determine a whale's distance or size. People took turns sleeping in the tent while the others kept one eye open for the bowheads. The hours flew by
Thursday, April 29, 2010
5 flights later
Reed and I flew from JFK to Seattle, Seattle to Anchorage, Anchorage to Fairbanks. The next day we got on an 18 seat plane to Prudhoe Bay and a 6-person plane from Prudhoe Bay to Nuiqsut and Nuiqsut to Barrow. This is the last leg our our journey. Reed was a bit nervous because the plane was so small. I fell asleep. I think it was the vibrations from the propeller.
Fairbanks, AK
Beauty of Barrow
Just happy as a clam in Barrow, AK! Mom, the hats were a great idea. Thank you so much for that trip to the Army Navy store. As it may appear, I had to make significant changes to my wardrobe since the D.R.! This hat has become my new best friend. Reed is still in the running (despite his brilliant idea to come to the north pole), but the hat has proved to be slightly more useful.
Barrow is great. It is flooded with character, ATVs, snow and ice. There is much more diversity here than I anticipated. About 60% of the population is Native (Inupiat) and 40% are a medley of white, Thai and Filipino. We have yet to interact with any natives, but that is why we are here for 17 more days!
Just a glimpse of Barrow!
No, this isn't Russia. We are still in the U.S.!
I mean, I can't help but wonder why anyone in their right mind lives in this very little town north of the arctic circle. I can kind of understand maybe why Okpeana Naekok (imaginary name and character I just made up for the purposes of this argument!) just could never fathom leaving her family who has lived here generation after generation and wants to maintain her Inupiat values. But, Matt, this white dude we met from Orange County nonetheless, lives here in order to make money so he can afford the property he owns in L.A. in hopes that one day he himself will be able to enjoy overlooking the beach on his laptop sipping some fancy alcoholic beverage, instead of the current tenants renting the place!
Needless to say, it is a bit depressing here, but the residents we have come across thus far don't seem to mind the bitter cold or the overpriced super market or the inflated everything but below freezing temperatures.
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